Abstract

CARO SOTO, Melissa Soledad et al. Evaluation of the environmental impact of the process of chemical modification of native starches as potential excipients in the cosmetic industry. Rev. colomb. cienc. quim. farm. [online]. 2018, vol.47, n.2, pp.217-231. ISSN 0034-7418.  https://doi.org/10.15446/rcciquifa.v47n2.73967.

Starch, as a biodegradable natural polymer, is used in the cosmetic industry, exhibiting a low environmental impact. To improve the amphiphilic properties of this polymer, an aliphatic chain is introduced in the structure, which allows interacting with the polar chains of the starch, generating an increase of its lipophilic capacity. Therefore, in this paper we evaluated starches of yam, cassava, sweet potato and corn USP (as reference), which were subjected to three chemical modification methodologies: 1. Direct esterification; 2. Hydrolysis and esterification; 3. Esterification by microwaves, by using dodecenyl succinic anhydride (DDSA). In all cases significant increasing of the oil capturing capacities and emulsifier (active) of the starches. However, the "microwave method" presented some advantages compared to other methods, in particular, an increase in esterification efficiency, a decrease in the esterification reaction time and a lower environmental impact.

Keywords : Carbon footprint; cosmetics; starch; environmental impact.

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